ReLocavore: Redefining "local"

Back to Wisconsin, my cheesehead friends


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Mushroom Week Day 3: Mushroom Risotto

Mushroom Risotto (Cooks Illustrated Sept/Oct 2003)

Mushroom Risotto. Tastes better than it looks. Srsly. (Cooks Illustrated Sept/Oct 2003)
Arborio rice on the bottom. Japonica rice on the top. The arborio is whiter because it has more starch and less protein. Note that the shape is even stumpier than Japonica. (Japonica or "sushi rice" is basic Japanese short-grain rice.) Arborio rice on the bottom. Japonica rice on the top. The arborio is whiter because it has more starch and less protein. Note that the shape is even stumpier than Japonica. (Japonica or “sushi rice” is basic Japanese short-grain rice.)

Risotto is fancy Italian garbage rice. In general, risotto is made by toasting rice in butter, then cooking the rice slowly with little infusions of flavorful liquid while stirring, and stirring and stirring and stirring and stirring and stirring and stirring and stirring and stirring and stirring and stirring and stirring and stirring and stirring and stirring, then add butter or cheese. Voila!

The key to risotto is the special arborio rice. The grains have two unique characteristics: they’re high in starch and shaped more like a football than a sausage. Because the arborio rice grains are stumpy, football-shapes, they are less likely to break while stirring and stirring and stirring and stirring and stirring and stirring and stirring. Since the grains have lots of starch, all of that stirring rubs the starch grains against each other, sloughing off starch on the outer layer of the cooking grain and mixing it into the interstitial cooking space, making the risotto creamy.

We didn’t just have risotto for dinner, we had mushroom risotto. Again, this is a Cooks Illustrated Recipe (Sept/Oct 2003). To get lots of mushroom flavor the recipe has two important elements. One, like yesterday’s mushroom ragu, the recipe uses rehydrated porcini mushrooms and their broth. Second, the recipe adds soy sauce, which has lots of “brown” or umami flavors. So, in the risotto is 1 oz reconstituted porcini mushrooms (about 1 cup when rehydrated and minced) plus the caps of crimini mushrooms, cut into quarters instead of slices, so they hold together during cooking. The dish is finished with salty parmesan cheese, some parsley for color, and a bit of butter. Took about an hour to prep and cook.


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Mushroom Week: Mushroom Nutrition

Nutrition for 8oz of white button mushrooms.

Nutrition for 8oz of white button mushrooms.

Once I had figured out basics of Mushroom biology, I wanted to know what are they made of? Are they meat or vegetables? How much protein and fiber do they contain?

The main stuff that makes up mushrooms is a protein called chitin. It’s a protein that is also found in insect exoskeletons. Hmm… There’s also other nutrients that occur in small amounts and vary according to th e

I looked up mushroom nutrition in the USDA nutrition database. It seems there’s not much of anything in mushrooms. Based on plan-old white button mushrooms, an 8 oz serving (about a packed cup of chopped mushrooms… or three portobello caps. A lot of mushroom) is only 50 calories. Most of the nutrition is from fiber (2.3 g) and protein (7.0g). Compare this to 8oz of flank steak (lean beef) has 440 calories, mostly fat (18.9g) and protein (63.5 g). Really, mushrooms are a fibrous network to hold water.


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Mushroom Week: Day 2 Mushroom Ragu

Mushroom Ragu. Fan-stupid-tastic.

Mushroom Ragu. Fan-stupid-tastic.

Of all of the recipes I have ever cooked, this is the best. There have been recipes that are easier (mapo tofu), that I make more frequently (pasta primavera), that I save for special occasions (tonkatsu), or that I work hard to enjoy the indulgence (e.g. calzones). This recipe tastes the best, cooks the fastest, and is the most reliable. The whole impetus of Mushroom week was the mushroom and wild rice soup from last night, plus my LOVE for this recipe. I hope everyone tries it out.

You’ll find porcini mushrooms at high-end grocery stores, the internet or mail-order. Give them a smell, if you can get into the packaging. They should smell strong of earth and woods.

This is also another recipe that would be easy to convert to vegetarian or vegan. Substitute chicken broth for mushroom or vegetable broth (or water…) and either omit the pancetta or substitute some other faux-meat. If you do omit the pancetta, add extra olive oil (a tablespoon maybe?) and cook the tomato paste (step 2) until it is very brown, but not burnt. This will make sure there are lots of interesting maillard reactions to produce meaty flavors. You’ll be happy to give it the extra minute or two.

I want to emphasize how important it is to rinse and strain the porcini mushrooms. They come dried and there’s always some grit in the dried mushroom. This recipe reconstitutes the mushrooms in chicken broth to form tasty mushrooms, and a VERY rich flavorful broth. It may seem unnecessary to pick the mushrooms out of the broth with a pair of forks, or to filter the broth through a coffee filter, but DO IT. These steps make sure there is no grit left in the mushrooms or the broth. Grit will RUIN this recipe.

The first time I made this recipe, I totally skimped on the de-gritting of the porcini. I just dumped the mushrooms through a wire strainer over a measuring cup, transferring all of the grit into my recipe. It was not good, let me tell you…

Mushroom Ragu

Serves 4

Mise en place for Mushroom ragu. From top left: porcini mushrooms, pancetta, crushed tomatoes, parmesan cheese, spaghetti, portobellos, chicken broth and a bowl holding the olive oil, garlic, rosemary and tomato paste.

Mise en place for Mushroom ragu. From top left: porcini mushrooms, pancetta, crushed tomatoes, parmesan cheese, spaghetti, portobellos, chicken broth and a bowl holding the olive oil, garlic, rosemary and tomato paste.

1 oz dried porcini mushrooms, rinsed well
1 cup low-sodium chicken broth
4 oz pancetta, cut into 1/2″ pieces (substitute country ham or thick-cut bacon just fine. Don’t substitute proscuttio.)
1/2 pound (2 large) portobello mushrooms, stems and gills removed, but into 1/2″ pieces.
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 medium garlic cloves, sliced thin
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary leaves (we used dried)
14.5 oz can of whole tomatoes
salt and pepper
1 pound spaghetti
grated pecorino Romano cheese (I substituted parmesan because I needed parmesan for another recipe I’m cooking later this week.)

1.  Place porcini and broth in a small microwave-safe bowl; cover with plastic wrap and cut several steam vents in plastic with paring knife.  Microwave on high power 1 minute, until broth is steaming.  Let stand until mushrooms soften, about 10 minutes.  Lift mushrooms from broth with fork and finely chop.  Strain broth through fine mesh strainer lined with a large coffee filter into medium bowl.  Set aside mushrooms and broth.

2.  Heat pancetta in 12-inch skillet over medium heat; cook, stirring occasionally, until rendered and crisp, 7 to 10 minutes.  Add portobellos, chopped porcini, olive oil, garlic, tomato paste, and rosemary; cook, stirring occasionally, until all liquid has evaporated and tomato paste starts to brown, 5 to 7 minutes.  Add reserved chicken broth, crushed tomatoes, and their juices; increase heat to high and bring to simmer.  Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until thickened, 15 to 20 minutes.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

3.  While sauce simmers, bring 4 quarts water to boil in a large dutch oven.  Add 1 tablespoon salt and pasta; cook until al dente.  Drain pasta, reserving 1/2 cup cooking water, and return to pot.  Add sauce to pasta and toss to combine.  Adjust consistency with reserved pasta water and season with salt and pepper to taste.  Serve, passing pecorino separately.

Per Serving (with no added cheese):
Calories: 641
Total Fat: 25.1 g
Sodium: 715 mg
Carbs: 74.3g
Protein: 28.4g


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Mushroom Week: Mushroom Biology

In the taxonomic world of living things, there are 5 kingdoms: animals, plants, fungi, protists (called eukaryotes when I was in school), and prokaryotes. Mushrooms are fungi – an entire KINGDOM of foods to discover and eat! We are very familiar with yeasts and their culinary properties – yeasts are single-celled organisms that eat sugar, belch gasses, and make bread and beer. Molds are another type of fungi – think blue cheese, penicillin and shower curtains. Mushrooms are only one part of the remaining kingdom of fungi.

The thing we thing of as the “mushroom” is often the “fruiting body” of a vast structure that makes up the entire fungus. The mushroom part comes together, raises up out of the ground and releases spores – part of the way the mushroom can reproduce. We are not going to discuss how this type of reproduction relates to human reproduction, or else I’ll get the giggles…

So the mushroom often has “gills” where the spores are kept. The gills provide lots of surface area to distribute the spores. In my opinion, gills get in the way of culinary goodnesss, so I often scrape them out, especially in big portobello mushroom caps.

The big difference between fungi and other organisms is that fungi break down other organisms for their own nutrition. Animals eat plants and other animals. Plants get energy from soil, water and sunlight. Fungi eat everything, breaking down dead material into it’s basic components, then rebuilding it to feed themselves. It’s kind of like Minecraft… Except with fewer Creepers.


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Mushroom Week Day 1. Wild Rice Mushroom Soup

The mushrooms for this week's recipes. 2.5 lbs crimini. 2.0 lbs portobello. 0.5lbs dried porcini. and 0.1 oz dried shiitake.

The mushrooms for this week’s recipes. 2.5 lbs crimini. 2.0 lbs portobello. 0.5lbs dried porcini. and 0.1 oz dried shiitake.

This has (somehow) become mushroom week. In the most recent (January/February 2013) Cooks Illustrated, there was a recipe for Wild Rice and Mushroom Soup. It looked good, so I thought to make it for dinner one day this week. Somehow, this spiraled into an entire weeks’ worth of mushroom recipes.

I also want to learn a little more about mushrooms. I eat them occasionally, but not regularly. There is much to explore.

The first recipe of the week is for Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup. If you would like a copy of the recipe, please email me. I’m hesitant to post it to my site because it’s copyright from Cooks Illustrated. I wouldn’t want to get into trouble.

The recipe has two interesting twists. First, the wild rice is cooked with baking soda to keep the grains intact. Didn’t make much of a difference, as far as I could see. Our grains fell apart. However, I am a cheapskate, so I didn’t buy the $25.99/lb “whole” wild rice, but the $6.99/lb “broken” wild rice. Might have something to do with it. Second, they use powdered shiitake mushrooms and cornstarch to give the broth some thickness and body. The broth did have thickness and body. Success!

Wild rice and mushroom soup. I had to work really hard to make it look tasty. Mushrooms and wild rice tend to sink.

Wild rice and mushroom soup. I had to work really hard to make it look tasty. Mushrooms and wild rice tend to sink.

We made one main modification – I don’t eat a lot of dairy, and the recipe called for adding 1/2 c heavy cream at the end of cooking. This would be way too much cream for me – so we substituted coconut based nondairy creamer. It’s not sweet and the soup didn’t come out tasting like coconut.

I keep saying “we” like I had anything to do with the cooking. Sam did all of it. All of the prep, all of the stirring. Everything. I was in my office stuffing Holiday cards into envelopes through the whole thing. I did stop by the kitchen to refill my glass of wine and observe the progress.  Tomorrow will be different. We’re making one of my favorite recipes… More then.


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Subarus and the Northeast.

I’m reading Randall Rothenburg’s Where Suckers Moon: An advertising story. In the book, he followed executives from Subaru of America while they searched for a new advertising agency in 1990, found their new agency, Wieden + Kennedy, and eventually divorced their agency.  At the time that Rothenburg was writing, the most Subarus were sold in the Northeast and in Washington, Oregon, and Colorado, with almost no sales in the Midwest, California, Arizona and the South. I have tried fruitlessly to provide some contemporary numbers on Subaru sales, to confirm that this trend continues, but alas, it seems these illusive figures sit behind a paywall at Wards Autos, the IMS* of the car industry.

Reading this book has made me notice that there are a LOT of Subarus being driven around here. A LOT. I’ll do some back-of-the-napkin data collecting later, but there are some times at the dog park that my Acura is the only non-Subaru in the parking lot. The COOP lot is always full of Forresters and Outbacks, and my workplace has a fair share of Subarus hanging out in the parking lot.

Why are Subarus so popular in the Northeast?

Up here, there doesn’t seem to be the misconception that a Subaru is a car for a lesbian, ala Lezbaru. I see plenty of men driving them. I think the perception that the Subaru Outback is one of the gayest cars of all time (meaning driven by homosexuals, not meaning the derogatory use of “gay”) came while Subaru began making inroads into the Southwest and Midwest, increased sales, and became a more widely known car company. From the information in Rothenburg’s book, Subaru has been selling lots of cars in the Northeast since the Subaru 360 was released in the 1970s.

Rothenburg argues that Subarus are cheap and have 4-wheel drive, traits that appeal to Northeasterners who travel up and down hills with rain and snow. Although this argument likely explains the popularity of the car in the pre-SUV era, today there are plenty of cars that drive well in the snow and rain. Plus, Subarus ain’t cheap any more. You can get a Forrester kitted out with leather and heated steering wheel (Isn’t that a feature built for Northeasterners?), Bose sound system, remote start, iPhone controls and the like for $36,000+. It’s no Audi, but it’s not a cheap car anymore.

Have people just kept buying Subarus out of loyalty? This may explain why the Northeast continues to be a stronghold of Subaru sales, but wouldn’t explain the overall growth of Subaru since the 1990s. Although Subaru is only the 21st largest car manufacturer, they’re now one of the top-rated car manufacturers.

Subaru Dealerships in America. One dot = one dealer. I'm relying on Google to identify dealerships...

Subaru Dealerships in America. One dot = one dealer. I’m relying on Google to identify dealerships… Note these dealerships cluster in target markets: The Pacific Northwest, the Northeast, and the Mountainous West. Now there is newer growth in population centers like Southern California, New York/New Jersey, and Florida.
Toyota Dealerships in America. Contrasted to Subaru dealerships, they're more spread out into the Midwest, and not so heavily clustered. Toyota Dealerships in America. Contrasted to Subaru dealerships, they’re more spread out into the Midwest, and not so heavily clustered.

I suspect that part of the reason so many people own Subarus is because, historically, they were heavily promoted in the Northeast, and were great cars tailored specifically for people living in snowy, hilly areas. This resulted in a higher density of Subaru dealerships in the area. Today, while the Subaru isn’t the only good car in the snow or on the hills, the dealerships have big quotas to meet every year, hence they get lots of people to buy Subarus. It’s the dealers driving the sales.

*(How do you make asides or footnotes in blog posts?) IMS is a company that gathers information on all of the filled prescriptions from pharmacies. They make big bucks selling this information to drug companies, which they use to determine how well their drug is selling. Wards Auto gets information from dealership about each car sold in America including the dealership, the options on the car, the sticker price and the negotiated price. They sell the information back to the car manufacturers, wholesalers and dealers so they can tell how well their cars are selling in comparison to their competition.


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This Week in Breakfast: EBA (Everything but Anchovies)

We’ve had a long couple of weeks without Sunday Breakfast. Last Sunday, I was sick with a terrible cold, so I stayed in bed for the day and kept my germs to myself. As much as I would have loved breakfast, I was still feverish.

This week, I’m healed up, and we went into Hanover to a old-standby restaurant Everything But Anchovies, that has recently started serving a Sunday brunch. I guess EBAs has served a Saturday breakfast buffet for some time, but is only now expanding breakfast service to Sunday morning.

The service at EBAs is typically a buffet – in the evenings they have a pizza and pasta buffet set out. Following that theme, EBAs set out a brunch buffet. Since the Sunday service was rather new, the place was mostly empty at 9:30. The service picked up more toward 10am. We stayed until almost 11 and the place didn’t fill up. This was our first Brunch Buffet and so had to set the standard for diversity. The buffet included:

  • standard breakfast fare – steam tray eggs, roasted potatoes, sausage links and bacon, pancakes, a waffle machine,
  • Toast, bagels and muffins
  • Breakfast burritos (Unfortunately I didn’t have one, as good as they looked, because they all had cheese in them.)
  • Cold plate (lox, onions, capers, tomatoes)
  • Fruit salad
  • Shrimp cocktail
  • Salmon with wild rice pilaf (the lunch-like entree)
  • A collection of deli-style salads and greens salads
  • Vegetable sides like roast green beans, roast squash

EBAs also had a standard menu, but we didn’t even look at it. The buffet was pretty good, and worth the $11.95 (including drinks) price.

I’m sorry that I didn’t take any pictures. Sam and I were actually really chatty through breakfast (no TVs to distract us this week), and were well-ignored by the waitstaff, who probably struggle to make a living serving breakfast buffet. We gabbed over a long breakfast, going back for TWO plates each and ignoring our books.

My impression was that EBAs had all the benefits of a brunch buffet – fast service, great for big groups, meets different dietary needs, etc… But I admit, the buffet was missing a “star.” It needed the one dish that was so darn good that everybody had to take a bit. I’ve been to two extraordinary brunch buffets, the Buffet at the Capitol Hilton in Washington, DC (PDF), and the Brunch Buffet at Granite City Grill in Madison, WI. I could gush for hours about brunch at the Capitol Hilton. The food is excellent quality, the tea service is spot-on, and the items rotate around for great diversity. The “star” at the Capitol Hilton is the fruit parfaits – local fruits, tart yogurt and homemade granola. They bring them out in trays because everyone wants one. Plus, their croissants are very flaky and buttery. Granite City is a big indulgence – a place to goto brunch when you don’t want to eat for the rest of the day. Granite City has a egg benedict station and the chef has ingredients to make 5 or more variants on the dish. Yes, they will do Hotel Benson eggs – biscuit with ham and a poached egg, topped with cheddar-based mornay sauce. Plus, they put out sauce for everything – gravy for biscuits, au jous for the carving station, homemade ketchup for potatoes.

So missing at EBAs was the “star.” Everything was ok, but nothing was exceptional. I guess it came off more like a mid-tier hotel “hot free breakfast” rather than a coherent breakfast buffet.

I do give them a lot of credit for having a lot of seafood on the buffet: lox, roasted salmon, and shrimp.

We’ll likely go back, but probably for pizza and pasta, rather than breakfast.


Previous Breakfasts:


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This Week in Breakfast: The Lebanon Diner

Note the stark contrast between the white-and-black checked flooring, the stainless steel bar, the pressed tin tiles,  and the “retro” dropped ceiling.

Today we had a good breakfast. We drove down the hill to the Lebanon Diner (Yelp) that is located on the corner of the pedestrian mall in Lebanon. The Leb Diner is a red0-retro. The Quechee diner and 4 Aces used to be dining cars and were refit to modernize the kitchen and increase the size of the service areas. The Leb Diner was never a diner – it’s just a first-floor retail spot on the mall in Lebanon. The pressed tin walls and the stainless steel counter are afterthoughts.

I was happy with their menu selections – basic American breakfast fare. Sam had hash and eggs. I had biscuits and gravy. The B&G wasn’t as good as Quechee diner, but it was made with very good, spicy sausage. Sam’s H&A was also pretty tasty, but they obviously didn’t make their own brisket. The coffee was robust but didn’t taste burnt.

Yes, they serve only real maple syrup, and the don’t charge extra for it.

The bill was a little less than some other places – $23 with tip.

I was quite happy with our experience, but I have to admit, I really hate eating in a restaurant with a television. If you’re in a “sports bar” while “sports” are being broadcast, sure, fill every vertical surface with televisions, pour me a beer and serve up the hot wings. Everywhere else – Please get rid of your TVs or flip them over to the video-of-a-roaring-log station. I just don’t want to see it. The Leb Diner had a flat-panel TV over the counter playing highlights from Saturday’s college football games. The food was good. The service was good. I can’t see myself going back because I don’t want to have to see TV every Sunday morning. Mickey’s Roadside Diner also had televisions, but they were a _bar_ serving food on Sunday mornings before the football game. Leb Diner didn’t have much of an excuse – Turn the TV off.


Previous Breakfasts:


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I want your socks, baby…

(Top left) White cotton athletic socks. Military wool socks. Knee-high skiing socks. (second row) Nubbly wool socks. Cotton athletic socks. Black versions of the military sock. (bottom) More white cotton. Women’s trouser socks. Bamboo socks. (Not shown) men’s black dress socks. Red version of the ski sock in upper right.

 

I’ve noticed a theme in the Northeast. People don’t build Sam’s Club, they make mini Sam’s clubs periodically throughout the year. Sam and I were able to goto the COOP Caselot (cursealot) sale a few weeks ago. This weekend, we drove up to lovely Northfield, Vermont for the Cabot Hosery Mill’s 33rd Annual Sock Sale. Cabot Hosery Mill makes Darn Tough socks, but also contracts sock production for lot of other companies. They open their factory to visitors and sell of their seconds, slightly blemished, large production, returns, etc at cheap prices.

New this year was the 5 am opening time for the first weekend. Rumor has it, the sock sale started out as an event for “hunting widows,” women with free time on their hands while their husbands packed off to deer camp for the first weekend of the season. There were signs along the roadway for “Hunter’s Breakfast 5am.” I guess the ladies decided to go early too. I don’t know why anybody would want to buy socks at 5am. It’s not like they were going to run out of socks any time soon.

There were a lot of socks for sale. I mean A LOT. Men’s. Women’s. Children’s. Dress socks, military grade socks that goto the troops in Afghanistain, skiing socks, hiking socks. Socks made from cotton, wool, merino wool, bamboo. White, black, all the other colors of the rainbow. There was some organization, but other areas where there were just bins of socks and people crowded around the bin and dug through until they found two socks they liked. Digging socks are $1 for a pair. All other socks ranged from $1-$8 per pair. The military socks were 6 pair for $10 (I bet the military doesn’t contract for them that cheap.) And here’s the weird thing. There were ONLY socks for sale. There wasn’t a single other item. Outside the sock sale, the local Jaycees setup a table with homemade doughnuts and coffee. But that’s it. Socks. Doughnuts. Coffee. All you could buy.

(Check out the video on youtube.) With socks so cheap, people seemed to have eyes bigger than their wallets. Everyone was given a white plastic bag to fill when they walked in the door. Moms with small kids would gather up all of the bags and start making piles in corners of the room to cull the herd of socks. Sam and I went through our bags and put back about 4 pair. Some people were walking out with multiple bags and spending hundreds of dollars.

Sam and I didn’t go crazy. We got some really nice socks. And you should all know what you’re getting for Christmas/Hanukkah this year. All of the pictures above were the socks we bought.

The sock sale seemed to be a big enough “thing” that it has spurred other local garment manufacturers to have their own single-item blowout sale the same weekend. I heard about a t-shirt/sweatshirt sale from a factory that makes cotton goods, and a fleece sale from Double Diamond. They seem to publicize their sales with signs directing sock shoppers to their locale. Shoppers were moving among the three sales, each about a 20 minute drive away.

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Ramuntos Brick n Brew

Sam and I got to eat out for dinner tonight. We chose to goto Ramunto’s Brick n Brew Pizzaria in Hanover. It’s next to the library where Sam meets for his “BikePed” meetings, so he leaves his committee meeting to the aroma of brick-oven pizza. I guess after Monday’s meeting the smell was seductive enough for us to go out to eat.

A variety of ways that pizzarias have screwed up our pizza order. It’s likely there will be more illustrative figures of this type in future posts. Blame Omnigraffle.

We ordered a chicken-bacon-ranch pizza, which was the one that sounded the best sans cheese. We typically order a pizza with toppings across the whole pizza and cheese only on one half. I’m lactose intolerant and haven’t eaten dairy since I was in college. There are a number of creative ways that pizzarias have screwed up this arrangement, as illustrated in Figure 1. In the upper left is the correct pizza. Toppings cover 100% of the pie, while cheese only covers 50%. In this pie, I can eat and enjoy 50% while Sam can eat and enjoy 50%. We’ve seen it screwed up in some pretty inventive ways. In the upper right is the typical way that Glass Nickel in Fitchburg will screw up our pizza. They only put toppings on half. I can eat 0% of this pizza. In the lower left is the way that Glass Nickel University Ave would screw up our pizza. They would put toppings on half and cheese on the other half. While I can eat 50% of this pizza, Sam’s half is pretty boring. I usually share my toppings with his half. In the lower right is they way Toppers screws up our pizza. They completely disregard special instructions and slap toppings and cheese on all of the pie. I can eat 0% of this pizza.


Ramuntos deserves credit for landing in the upper-left quadrant of pizza. They got it right, and we had a tasty chicken-bacon-ranch pizza. Sam could eat and enjoy 50% and I could eat and enjoy 50%. Ramuntos makes a quasi-New York style pizza. It’s thin and HUGE, but not completely floppy. The crust stays a little crisp and can puff while it bakes. Surprisingly for a place named “Brick n Brew” the brick oven wasn’t even fired. All of the cooking was being done in standard gas-fired pizza ovens. The chicken was boring – maybe cooking them with the bacon would have added some moisture and flavor. Other toppings included slices of tomato and broccoli.

We also sampled some local beers. I’ve discovered an American style unfiltered Wheat called “UFO” which, according to the Harpoon website, stands for “UnFiltered Offerings.” It’s the most unremarkable American Wheat – no cardamom or orange notes, just wheaty and yeasty. It’s boring in a drink-a-lot-of-this kind of way. It’s offered at most bars in Hanover, so I’m thinking of it as the Spotted Cow of Hanover.